Posts Tagged: Preparedness Supplies

Motorcycles for the prepper….a few thoughts

I’ve been riding motorcycles, on and off, for 15 years or so. Started with dirt bikes (hey, I was only ten…) and graduated(?) for a short while to street, and then back to dirt. The last bike I had, before this latest sabbatical, was a full race, very custom desert racer. Motor was based off of a 350 Honda, and it was a true frankenbike – scary fast though. At least until I blew a hole in the piston….

Well, after I sold that bike some years back, I’ve always had the urge to get back into them. I bit the bullet a while back and picked up another basic trail bike – a Honda XR400. After searching long and wide, I settled on the 400, and the XR series. One can do pretty much anything with that displacement of engine (even though long street rides can be hard on the rider), and the XR’s have a terrific reliability record. Not to mention they’ve been thoroughly debugged – the basic engine design has been around over 40 years. I purposely steered away from larger displacement XR’s (the 600’s and the 650’s) for a few different reasons.

1 – While they have plenty of power, they’re harder to ride on tight trails, and to muscle over obstacles when one has to. (and if you do the riding I used to do, and hope to do again, yes, you will be dragging the bike over and under stuff. Also up stuff. And down stuff.)
2 – Fuel use – there’s quite a difference between the 600/650 and the 400. Properly set up, the 400 can go much farther on the same amount of fuel.
3 – Steel frames on the 400 are more durable than the aluminum, go faster stuff.
4 – No electric starter, manual kick only.
5 – Lighter weight (see reason #1 above)

There are much more modern bikes out there, that are basically product improved versions of the venerable XR400 – bikes like the Suzuki DRZ series. They’ve got plenty of followers, but being more modern they’re also more complicated. More things to break, and when you get down to it, most riders still can’t use the full capabilities of the old XR – how are they going to use the full capabilities of a more modern bike with more power, etc? It goes both ways of course, some folks love the electric starter (at least until the electrics don’t work), and some are old school like me. I also prefer air cooled over water cooled, and again it comes down to the complexity of the system. Air cooled doesn’t have any worries about radiator hoses, delicate radiators, thermostats, water pumps and all the associated worries that come with that system. Air cooled, however, does take a different maintenance track. Oil changes become more critical, and oil quality is more critical.

There’s another common trap out there for folks – the bigger is better trap. It’s not necessarily true, but it’s been pushed for so long that some people have a very hard time getting over it. Get enough to do the job right, but more than that is just a waste. Getting that larger machine, while entertaining, can cost you in the long run. Fuel costs, maintenance costs, storage, initial cost, insurance – it all adds up. Take a look at one of the motorcycles that are used by various military units around the world. You’ll usually find something that’s not that big a displacement (250cc – 400cc or so), but has plenty of capabilities. There’s a reason they’ve gone with that size of bike.

Your basic XR400....

Your basic XR400....

For prepper uses something like this bike is ideal. Properly modified, you can carry enough on it to last a week of camping, and travel a thousand miles. Or more. It’s been done enough that it’s a well proven method, and there are a couple of great forums out there that’ll show you how to do it, and enable you to compare notes with others doing the same thing. One of the best is the ADV Rider site, at www.advrider.com.

Some of the things that are of interest to the motorcycling prepper are the number of rack, pack, and pannier systems that are out there. Not to mention the ways to carry additional fuel, tools, supplies and camping gear. Then there are the guys that have figured out ways to power Ham radio systems off of their bikes, likewise GPS navigation systems, additional lighting, and coffee pots. (yep, gotta have coffee in the morning.)

As for my new bike, I have a few plans for it. I’ll be getting rid of the stock fuel tank and putting on a higher capacity tank, and two additional reserve tanks. It’ll get a larger fairing, both to cut some of the wind at higher speed and to serve as a mounting point and shade for a couple of GPS units. Different seat contour for better long distance comfort, and a larger HID headlight. Some tail light modifications for safety, and then some rack mounts for soft cases. (quick note: I like the soft cases more than the hard cases, reason being that when (not if) you lay it down, the soft cases are much more forgiving on your legs when you crash. I’ve learned that on the Rokon Trailbreaker, same thing applies)

It also strikes me that bikes might actually have been one of the leading reasons I was introduced to preparedness. I’ve always lived, and ridden in the desert, and mostly solo. When you’re doing that it becomes that much more important to be prepared, especially since you can go amazing distances before you know it, on a bike. You can quite literally find yourself in the middle of nowhere, and if you’ve managed to have a bit more of an adventure than you’ve planned on…… I’ll do a few more thoughts on riding and potential bug out issues in other future posts, especially as I ride more and start to remember what I’ve forgotten!

So there are some thoughts on bikes – if you’ve been considering them, or are currently using them, go ahead and shoot out some comments on this blog or on the forum.

-Greg

Fuel Transfer Tanks, and some fuel storage tips

Fluids are always an issue.

Heavy. Bulky. Moving when you don’t want them to move.

Add in something that’s flammable or combustible, and you have even more potential worries.

One of the solutions I’ve been using in my pickup is a transfer tank. You’ve probably seen them in the beds of commercial trucks, flatbeds and pickup trucks. Usually decorated with a red Fill-Rite 12 volt pump on a top corner. I’m specifically a diesel guy, so my fuel issues are a bit different from gasoline issues, but there’s still lots of overlap concerning storage, transportation and utilities.

What’s the difference between the transfer tank and the auxiliary fuel tank? Well, not a whole heckuva lot. Both hold fuel. Both dispense fuel. Both look basically the same. Legally, the transfer tank can not be used as a connected auxiliary fuel tank, whereas the aux tank already has that legal issue dealt with. Not to mention the design is usually a bit nicer than just a DIY tank mod, like many folks do. Personally, even though I’d love to have an Aerotank or Transferflow, I can’t afford them. So I have just a basic transfer tank, with a Graco fuel pump, auxiliary filter, and a digital flow meter. It does the trick, and it’s more flexible than just an auxiliary tank – if I need to fuel up a generator, another vehicle, or just dump fuel into my storage tanks, I just fire up the pump and go do it. Most of the auxiliary tanks that are out there are not designed to work as transfer tanks too, but there are a few companies out there that do have a dual duty style…but again, you will pay quite a bit more for it. I don’t mind paying a thousand less and pulling over every four hours to top off the tank. Heck, that’s about my limit for sitting in one place anyway.

The two different types of fuel transfer that auxiliary tanks use are gravity feed, and solenoid activated gravity feed. With the low tech gravity feed, you don’t have to do anything – other than keep your main tank cap on. I guarantee someone will leave it off once though, and you’ll wind up dumping fuel on the ground. You might only do that once but it can still be an expensive lesson to learn. Then, of course, there are the issues that happen when someone else uses your vehicle…

If you do want to try this method out, it’s pretty simple. All it amounts to is a “T” fitting in the main fuel fill hose and a auxiliary or transfer tank that has a fuel bung mounted low. Don’t say I didn’t warn you though.

What I do like are the solenoid actuated systems, and for that matter it’d be relatively easy to hook up a manual fuel dump valve that would feed transfer tank contents into your main fuel tank. Not hard to do a system that you could either actuate from the drivers seat, or from the bed of the truck.

Of course, you can always do like I have, and just use a regular transfer tank. There are plenty of decent ones being made out there – RDS, Better Built, Weather Guard, Transferflow, Aerotank are a few that have a good product.

The other issue you have to deal with on the transfer tank is how do you get the fuel from point “A” to point “B”? You’ll need some kind of fuel pump (even though you can siphon quite nicely from them), fuel hose, and fill nozzle. I haven’t seen any fuel pump out there that are junk. All of them do the trick, but you’ll have to decide which one to go with depending on your usage pattern, how fast you need a fill, etc. Manual pumps usually run around a gallon for ten pumps of the handle, while the electric pumps will go up to 30 gallons a minute, if your fuel tank can handle that rate. Most can’t get anywhere near that, but the larger tanks on full size trucks can, as can most of the diesel tanks on military vehicles.

If you’re really,really frugal, you can always modify a used fuel tank off of a junked car or truck. But there are definite trade-offs here – mounting can be an issue, as can safety. You’ll also commonly find that the fuel tanks (unless they’re aluminum or stainless) have got a nice coat of rust on the inside that has to be dealt with. For some of us though, it’s worth it. It’s something I’ve done in the past.

As to fuel storage, there are a few basic things with it. One major thing is watch the safety issues – ground everything. What you don’t need is a spark while opening/closing/or filling. It’ll spoil your day. Store the fuel drums off of the ground – direct contact will give you corrosion issues down the line. Don’t store the tanks half full, you ideally want them as full as possible. It’ll help with corrosion inside the tanks, and condensation issues also. Make sure you have easy access to the storage. Have a few fire extinguishers handy – I like the CO2 style, but the powder and foam ones are great also. Make sure that the area is signed as a no smoking/no open flame area. I also try not to use radios in the area – cell phones are one issue, but if you’re also into Ham radio you know how much power can be put out by a rig, and corona/static effects.

My basic storage system is 55 Gallon fuel drums that originally held transmission fluid (sourced them from a local fuel supplier for $20 each), and a manual Fill-Rite pump. Ground straps are clamped on, and the drums are stored off the ground on strips of Apatong wood.

One of the major benefits to the whole bulk fuel storage is the ability to be able to buy at a drop in the price. Another benefit that most folks don’t realize is that there are big differences in seasonal fuel blends. Differences that will effect economy, power and storage life span. Do some research in your own area, and find what the best season for fuel is.

-Greg

Basic Preparedness Strategy

Basic Preparedness Strategy

This is the document that I used for a recent podcast about a forming basic preparedness strategy. It was taken from a correspondence that I had with a friend of mine, shortly after the 9/11 terrorist attacks. It’s only one example of how to go about creating a strategy for getting better prepared. Adjust and modify for your needs.


Start with the current analysis of what you feel is the most likely situations or events that threaten your well being and safety (see previous podcast on Threat Analysis  ).  This Threat Analysis covers those circumstances and events that we need to make sure that we can cope with; either through physical preparation, mental preparation, or both.

Brief note on the threat analysis.  It was mentioned before, but I want to say it again, just in case I failed to properly explain it before.  The Threat Analysis is just a thinking tool to get you started.  There is little to be gained by making up a separate plan for each threat that you identify, as most situations have a common denominator that you need to provide for.  Things like food, water, shelter, warmth, safety, defense, etc. are needed in most situations that last longer than a few hours.  But there are some threats that have special conditions that you’ll need to address, and that’s where listing the threats comes into play.  Go over the list and check to make sure that you can handle anything that isn’t covered by the basics.  For example, radiation or a cloud of toxic chemicals.  You can be exposed to both either by accident or design, but you should be prepared to handle them.  The Threat Analysis list is exactly what you use to identify these sort of things.

Okay, onto a basic preparedness strategy.   (more…)

Tarps

I was thinking about tarps the other day and thought I’d toss up a quick blurb about them. Tarps are awesome, useful, and indispensable items. Every house should have a couple lying around. There are lots of different types and sizes of tarps (tarpaulin) and you can decided what you want to purchase to keep around. I’d only suggest that it’s best to purchase the thickest, darkest, and most heavy duty tarps that you can find or afford. I like silver tarps that have a thickness greater than 10 mil.

Mike@PrepCast.info

Some thoughts on vehicles, and maintenance

So today I was driving around in a mid 90’s sedan, a Buick. The darned thing started to overheat, but I made it to my destination. Popped the hood, let it cool while I took care of some business I had, and when I came back it was cool enough to take the radiator cap off and get an assessment. Usually, coolant and radiator problems will let themselves be known to you by the smell of hot water and steam, and this was no exception. The radiator had obviously boiled over, and I couldn’t see any issues with hoses, this being one of the cars that has everything so tightly integrated that you have a hard time tracing hoses under various components. So I got some water, and started to top off the radiator. Of course, that’s when I notice some water coming out of the top of the engine, still unknown because everything’s so obscured. So I pull the serpentine belt, the top plastic panels on the engine intake manifold, the battery get its positive lead pulled, the alternator gets pulled….and finally I see the culprit.

It’s a barbed hose fitting. Broken right off at the threads, from the bypass hose on the water pump. It’s plastic. Bugger snapped clean off.

Now, GM has all sorts of problems right now without me adding to them, but for the love of PETE YOU GM ENGINEERS…PLASTIC? In any case, I’m sourcing something in, oh, say, a nice brass fitting. Instead of plastic.

What the heck does this have to do with preparedness? Several things, to whit:

  • Modern vehicles have many components that aren’t built to last. Components that, once broken, can only be replaced – not field fixed.
  • Older vehicles often have more “maintainable” subsystems than newer vehicles, specifically because they needed more maintenance.  Not to mention they had to be able to be maintained by someone with a regular high school education, not  a Masters in Electronic Engineering.
  • Plastics on engines, transmissions, and other drivetrain components immediately make me suspicious of durability. Plastics should make you suspicious too.
  • JB-Weld, and epoxies in general, are godsends. (yeah, that doesn’t make sense as the last bullet, but once you use them…)
  • For preparedness, have things you can maintain. Have things that last. Have Things YOU Can Fix.

Even though it’s a given that modern vehicles are often much less maintenance intensive than older vehicles, this comes at a price. Namely that it’s hard to maintain them when they do break.

As an advanced, or even moderately advanced strategy, consider purchasing at least one older vehicle – something that’s pre-electronic. Even pre-CDI era (CDI being Capacitor Discharge Ignition, a huge advance at the time, and still  a great thing to convert an old points and condensor vehicle over from – but don’t throw those points kits away, stash them as a just-in-case backup.)  For many of us, something in a four wheel drive flavor  is attactive, but even having a regular car or motorcycle that doesn’t depend on hard to maintain systems, and systems that are specifically designed to deteriorate with time, is a terrific backup to have.

My preferences in vehicles tend towards durable 3/4 or 1 ton domestic pickups, from Chevrolet, Ford or Dodge. There’s no one best manufacturer, they’ve all got pluses and minuses. Engine -wise, if you’re looking for durability, maintainability and reasonable price, you won’t go far wrong with a Dodge slant six, a Chevy or Ford straight six,  with my preference being the good old slant six. But the Ford and Chevy are both great choices too.  If you’ve got to have a V-8, again, it’s pluses and minuses.  I prefer the Chevy small block, but that’s got quite a bit to do with just plain experience. You can do very well with the Ford and Dodge products too.  Concerning diesel engines, I really like the Cummins 12 valve engines.

Don’t ignore a regular sedan with an old six in it either, many of them are great vehicles. Likewise, if it’s motorcycles you’re into, look at the earlier bikes out there. I’m a big fan of the little old Honda CT-90’s, which were an incredible design.

One last thing: many of these older engines can almost be considered multi-fuel. If it’s designed as a gasoline, carburated engine, then you can run gasoline, gasoline blends, alcohol, propane, drip gas, etc. Some of these might take a few modifications, but it’s very possible. Not to mention also, if it comes down to it, being able to run on Wood Gas. Try getting a modern engine to do that. If it’s an early diesel engine, you have various diesel blends, fuel oils, jet fuel, waste vegetable oil, new vegetable oil and Biodiesel as a few options. Many of your diesel truck manuals, by the way, will specify “emergency fuels” in their reference sections. Might be a good idea to check on that, if you’re running a diesel truck.

So look into older vehicles, there are plenty of boards out there that deal with them. Many of us here can make good recommendations, so don’t hesitate to ask on The Preparedness Podcast Forum either.

-Greg Trent

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